Cloutie Wells of Cornwall by Frank Argall [Carnon Downs Old Cornwall Society]
A well, as a source of pure uncontaminated water, has long been valued as essential for survival and living. A perusal of the Ordnance Survey maps of Cornwall reveals tens of thousands of wells. Many were specially created for agricultural purposes, but some were evolved from naturally occurring springs or seeps. Look at any ancient settlement on the map, and there will be an ancient source of water nearby. Over two hundred of these are considered to be holy wells of some historical importance. The ancient wells of Cornwall have been well documented and continue to be researched, but little has been published about the cloutie wells. This article seeks to update the situation.
Hanging up a 'cloutie' is an ancient pagan custom that still survives in West Cornwall. By definition, a cloutie well is an ancient well believed to have special or magic powers, especially regarding the healing of ailments. What distinguishes a cloutie well is that it is an established source of freshwater that is said to have supernatural healing powers. Near it is growing a cloutie tree. This is usually a hawthorn, Crataegus Monogyna, distinguished by its white blossom in May.
Longstanding superstition states that a person suffering from a malady or affliction might have it cured by washing the part of the body affected with a rag or item of clothing in the well, and then hanging it on the cloutie tree to decay. The former is a 'cloutie'. As it rotted away the defect or illness disappeared, or so it was thought. Some might say that time is the best healer. This is analogous to wart-charming, whereby a piece of meat, which had been in contact with the wart, was buried in the ground and allowed to decay. In the post-pagan era a cloutie well was often linked with a local saint. Indeed, the existence of such a person often depended on the well as a source of pure water. Often it was a question of, no well, no saint, and vice versa.
Similar traditions exist through-out the Celtic fringes. Water from a sacred source has long been revered as a source of healing, especially in an era that experienced severe plagues. Perhaps it is due to the therapeutic properties of a good wash to people whose personal hygiene was much to be desired. Eye and skin diseases, as well as relationship problems, often remain as intractable problems today. Small chapels or baptisteries were often constructed nearby to utilise the sacred water for the Christian custom of baptising converts from the local pagan traditions.
The tradition of hanging clouties is alive and well in the 21st century, particularly in the Celtic fringes of West Cornwall, although there is reported to be a 'clootie well' in the remote parts of Scotland at Munlochy, north of Inverness. There are several cloutie wells still active today in Sancreed, Madron, St Buryan, St Uny Lelant, St Agnes and Lanlivery parishes. They may exist elsewhere in Cornwall.
The reader may wonder why this should happen in the 21st century, in the age of rationalism and the National Health Service. The short answer is that neither seems to solve the problems of all people at all times. When hope runs out, desperation begins. Certainly, paganism survives amongst a few adherents. But also, so are the 'New Age' practices, as evidenced by the actions of the influx into West Cornwall of the effects of the 'alternative society' and hippie cultures of the 1960’s.
How much the ancient customs of the cloutie well depend on our pre-Christian pagan heritage or the modern day Wishing Well culture of the votive offering, of dropping a coin and making a wish, is difficult to judge. Perhaps a closer examination of the intended offerings to the spirit of the well might be useful.
The accompanying photographs of some of the cloutie wells, as they are today, may provide suitable clues.
The cloutie trees at Madron Well are well worth a visit. The start of the footpath and convenient off-road car parking space is located on the B3312 (SW 44983 32417). Then just follow the signs. The well is linked to the Christian saint Madern: or is it Modron, the pagan mother goddess?
The water drains into a leat, which has been used to supply Penzance via the Causewayhead reservoir. It is said that the optimum benefit might be derived by visiting the well on the 1st May to coincide with the pagan festival of Beltane.
Sancreed Well is located at the end of a footpath opposite the church, where it is convenient to park at this location (SW 42013 29332). Just follow the signs by the telephone box. It is linked to St Credan and is said to be a well to It is linked to St Credan and is said to be a well to cure rickets.
Another well of historic importance is to be found near the ancient settlement of Carn Euny. It can best be located by driving along the A30 towards Land’s End, turning right at Crows-an-Wra and parking in the car park at Chapel Carn Brea (SW 38920 28332), then crossing the road and taking the footpath in a north-easterly direction. After about half a mile the well and accompanying tree can be seen to the right-hand side. A connection to St Euny may exist.
Another interesting Cloutie Well to visit is the Alsia Well near St Buryan (SW 39505 25195). This lies on private property however but is said to be well maintained.
Linked to the parish of St Uny Lelant is the small secluded well, known locally as the 'Fairy Well'. To reach it take the coastal footpath from St Uny church towards St Ives. About a quarter of a mile east of Carrack Gladden there is a small steep footpath on the right leading to what appears to be the cliff. The small but picturesque well is located to the right (SW 53610 38502).
The cloutie well at Park Shady is somewhat an enigma. For as long as local inhabitants can remember there always was a tradition of festooning the nearby vegetation. The old 1877 Ordnance Survey maps indeed show it as a well, but it has no saint. Perhaps Christianity has yet to reach these parts.
Possibly it is just another weeping mine adit. Certainly much of the Banns Valley was a major scene of copper mining in days gone by. However close examination does not reveal the portal of an adit, nor are nearby traces of related shafts or other workings present. The water itself is untainted and has been used for drinking in the past.
To view it, take the road to Porthtowan from Truro or Redruth, park in the lay-by opposite Wheal Bassett (the engine house has castellated chimney) (SW 70165 47055) and proceed along the footpath by the stream in a northerly direction. After about a mile the well is on the right hand side.
Another small ancient holy well where a few clouties are hung is at Lanlivery. Whether this practice is a remnant of ancient practice or simply is being spread from West Cornwall: no one approached locally seemed to know. To find it enter the footpath by the pub. (SX 07965 59020) and then follow the signs on the permissive path. The well has been linked to St Bryvyth, of whom little is known.
The mystery of the Cloutie Wells begs many questions – why in some places and not others? Perhaps the ancients found that the water did not do the trick everywhere? Is it a nationwide pagan custom that survives mainly in West Cornwall? Is it part of the Wishing Well culture, where people who can ill afford it throw good money away? Clearly further investigation is needed.
Sources:
Leggat, P O & D V. The Healing Wells – Cornish Cults and Customs, 1987. Straffon, Cheryl. Fentynyow Kernow –In search of Cornwall’s Holy Wells, 2005. Ordnance Survey Maps. Explorer Series 1:25000
Originally published in Kernow Goth journal :
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